Budget RC

How to: Ultralight Foamie Linkage

Mark — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 21:04:12 +0000

Here is a system that is used to create ultra lightweight control linkage. This system uses triangle shaped control horns and shrink wrap tubing. The diagram below should help you get the idea. In the first drawing break the carbon rod with your fingers but do not separate. Apply CA and shrink wrap over the break. This is the easiest way to do this half.

The second drawing shows the shrink wrap pushed over the end of the servo arm. Use needle nose pliers to stretch out one of the ends of the shrink wrap to fit over the servo arm. Check the fit befor you CA into place. Now put CA on the carbon rod and push into the other end, heat to shrink.

This makes for a very strong and effective control system.

Control rod size .040 (1 mm) for 8oz. foamie
Control rod size .060 (1.5mm) for 8oz. + foamie

Please comment and feel free to add your knowledge to this post.

How to: Light Control Rods

Mark — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 19:56:06 +0000

Here is a very effective, easy way to connect control linkage. I have used this way for years without any failures. This system is self locking and easy to disconnect when needed. It is also the system we recommend on our prop jets because of the strength. The down side to this system is it does not allow for adjustments at the ends. For me this has not really been a problem. I just don’t glue the end until I center my control surface and servo, Once it’s centered there really is no need for adjustment.

First start by lightly sanding the metal and carbon where the string will make contact. I suggest putting on the control arm before gluing, this will allow for a better fit, just make sure it fits tight against the control arm. Now wrap with string and soak with CA, or instead if your using shrink wrap just place some CA on the spot where the shrink tubing will go, slide it on and heat. Some CA will come out of the end and that’s OK.

I have switched to shrink wrap because it’s easier and has worked perfectly. Any comments would be appreciated.

Mark

Nutball Mod

Mark — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 15:53:22 +0000

A flying buddy built the 20 incher kit and didn’t look up your instructions……..OLD GUYS! So, he ends up with 18 degrees dihedral. It’s a real slug, way too heavy, but he’s having a blast with it. I ask him for a toot to give her a try and I’ll be damned, it flys inverted like it’s meant too, not perfect mind you, but good enough you can risk a low inverted pass if you always remember the rudder is backwards.

So, I build a couple of sub 5 ounce 17 inchers for indoor for myself and another friend, did the 18 degrees on them and it worked just as well. It’s not quite as respnsive on the inputs, so I just cranked them up a bit. You might give it a try. You can do it on the prototype I sent by reheating the hot melt with a Monokote trim iron or just cut out the dihedral joint and re-attach. If you find it works well for you, you might want to alter the kit.

Here in Canada, MAAC (the AMA equivalent) publishes a magazine for members and the NutBall showed up in the last issue. I haven’t gotten mine yet, so haven’t seen it, but have been swamped with emails about it. I’ve responded with your website, so hope you sell lots above the 49th.

Cheers: Frank Weaver

New Ideas

Mark — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 18:28:57 +0000

Mark: Just finished reading your servo arm, push rod connections, hinging , etc, using shrink wrap tubing and your novel way of first splitting the carbon rod slightly! (on the internet) (all on the biplane kit article)

Want to thank you as an old timer getting in to the f3p foam thing that your pics and notes are a godsend, well written and illustrated and worth a heartfelt thanks. THANKS! Keep up the good work with your understanding of how the other guy thinks and who needs assistance…………………………sincerely Bill Hadden. (virginia retiree modeler)

Thanks Bill

Many of my ideas come from other modelers, modeling for 30 years helps too! Any good ideas? email me at mark@budgetrc.com

Painting EPP

Mark — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 18:24:47 +0000

Hello Mark,

I recently purchased a 20″ Nutball, a Blue Wonder motor and a 10 amp ESC from you. Maiden flight today in a 2 court gym. Flies great and I am very pleased with it. AUW is 6.2 oz with a 11.1V 800 mAh battery. I would like to add some color to this model and would like to know if I should paint it or use some color trim sheet material. I would like to color it exactly the same way you have it on the package (2 yellow and black stripes on the body/wing, black canopy and black & yellow stripes on the elevator/rudder). If I paint it I was thinking of using Krylon Acrylic spray paint. If I trim it I would use something similar to Monocote trim sheets. I just don’t know which would be better to use or which will stick to the EPP foam. Any Suggestions?

Carl

Hi Carl

We use Dollar Store spray paint on the EPP. It works great! You may notice some warping at first when the paint is wet, but don’t panic. Leave it be, it will return to it’s original shap when it dries which usually takes about 12 to 24 hrs. By the way Monocote won’t stick to EPP. As a matter of fact we cant get any adhesive backed material to stick to EPP except Blenderm for the hinges.

Mark

Nutball Feedback Report

Mark — Sat, 12 Dec 2009 21:18:19 +0000

Hi, Mark -

I bought a Nutball a couple months ago when it was on sale and you wanted to know what people thought about it, so here’s my two cents worth.

I have about 20 other electric park flier planes of various kinds, not to mention a bunch of old glow-powered models, so I have a lot of experience, and I must say I really like the Nutball. Extremely easy to build and a lot of fun to fly. I love the super-slow harriers, yet it can scoot also, and it’s not bad when there’s a little breeze either.

I mounted the servos flat and put all the electrics on top, which worked great. I left the landing gear off and I also velcro-mounted the motor to help prevent possible crash damage to the motor and firewall, but that’s proved unnecessary (mainly because there haven’t been any crashes). However, interestingly, the velcro mounting has worked just fine and it also resulted in an extremely silent-running plane, since motor vibration is isolated and the plane doesn’t act as a sounding board. A nice surprise.

Another little change I might suggest that you incorporate in your instructions is to use the wing angle triangle of EPP as material for the tail skid. I cut off about 2 inches of the tip and glued it on, an it’s just perfect! Of course, without the LG I don’t really need it anyway.

My plane weighted in at just 4.9 ounces without a battery, and it will fly for about 15 minutes on a little 500 mah 2-cell, so that’s fantastic. I’ve tried several different 24-gram motors from 1300 KV to 1700 KV, and they all work just fine with the GWS 8×4.3 props that I like.

So that’s my little report. Thanks so much for making this unusual and very fun airplane kit available!

Sincerely -

Bob Martin
Long Beach, CA